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Turf Care...


Fescue Turf Maintenance: An Overviewby Scott Makey

We have prepared the following information for you in order to help you maintain your lawn. This information is geared toward newly installed fescue sod, but will provide guidance on existing lawns as well.

Adequate water is the key ingredient in a newly sodded lawn. We recommend a thorough soaking immediately following installation. Avoid walking on new grass during this period, as soggy spots will be present and can create "holding" areas of water if much traffic occurs. Daily water (more frequent in summer months) will be required during the first two weeks.

Do not mow new sod for 4 - 6 weeks, then maintain height at 3 - 31/2 inches. Mowing Fescue any shorter will KILL your grass, especially during periods of temperatures over 80 degrees. Don’t mow it too low. Be careful not to leave excessive thatch (clippings) on your new grass. Your lawn will be ready for normal activity, tolerant of light foot traffic, after the first mowing.

Fertilize with 1 LB Nitrogen per 1000sq ft in Sept, Nov, and Feb. Fertilizing too late in the spring can result in excessive fungal activity (brown patch).

Apply a fungicide in early June for the prevention of brown patch. Reapply as needed throughout the warm season. (see a knowledgeable garden center for proper fungicide and rates) Crabgrass control may be necessary. Pre-emergent control can be obtained by using Pendulum or Barricade.

Crabgrass will germinate in very early spring, therefore we recommend applying a pre-emergent in late February.

Post-emergent control can be achieved using MSMA, applied at the labeled rate in fall or spring. DO NOT use MSMA until after the 4th mowing on new sod. Some discoloration of Fescue may occur, but usually goes away within a few weeks of application.

You will need to aerate and over seed every fall, as Fescue is a "bunch" grass and will not spread into areas that have become thin or bare.

Enjoy your newly installed Fescue lawn!


Fescue Care: April thru Juneby NC State Cooperative Extension Service Turf Files

Mowing - Mow to 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches. Mow often enough so that no more than one-third of the grass height is cut; this may be every 5 to 7 days in late spring. Leave grass clippings on the lawn where they decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, collect them and use them as mulch. DO NOT bag them for trash collection; grass clippings do not belong in landfills.

Fertilization - DO NOT fertilize tall fescue after March 15.

Watering - Tall fescue needs 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water every week, ideally all at once. A dark bluish-gray color and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Water until the soil is wet to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Use a screwdriver or similar implement to check. Sandy soils require more frequent watering (about ½ inch of water every third day). Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait until the water has been absorbed, and begin watering again. Continue until the desired depth or amount is applied. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce problems later in the summer. Watering between 2 and 8 a.m. decreases the incidence of certain diseases. Weed Control Apply preemergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goosegrass, and foxtail. Apply by the time dogwoods are in bloom.


Fescue Care: June thru Augustby NC State Cooperative Extension Service Turf Files

Mowing Raise mower height to 3 1/2 inches. Mow before the grass gets above 5 inches tall. Remember grasscycling-leave clippings on the lawn.

Fertilizing - Do not fertilize tall fescue at this time. Submit a soil sample for analysis to determine nutrient requirements. (Contact your county Extension Center for details.)

Irrigation - Either water as needed to prevent drought or allow the lawn to go dormant. About 1 inch of water per application each week is adequate for irrigated lawns. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering, or about 1/2 inch of water every third day. Do not discontinue irrigation in midsummer. Water dormant lawns every three weeks in the absence of rain.

Disease Control - Check for brown patch disease. (See Extension Service Publication AG-361, Diseases of Cool-Season Grasses.)

Weed Control - Avoid the use of herbicides at this time. See Extension Service publication AG-408, Pest Control Recommendations for Turfgrass Managers.

Insect Control - Check for grubs in July and August and control them if necessary.


Fescue Care: September thru Novemberby NC State Cooperative Extension Service Turf Files

Mowing -  Tall fescue should be 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches tall after mowing. As a general guideline, try to mow often enough that no more than one-third of the grass height is cut. Then practice grass cycling, which is simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide up to 25 percent of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Whatever you do, don't bag them! Grass clippings do not belong in landfills.

Fertilizing -  The best way to determine your lawn's nutrient needs is by a soil test. The North Carolina Department of Agriculture, Agronomic Division, provides free soil testing. In the absence of a soil test, use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (that is, 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen (N) per thousand square feet in mid-September and again in November (about the time the grass is green but not actively growing).* (* leads to fertilizer application rate sample calculation)

Irrigation -  Water to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. Tall fescue needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering- for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It is often necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait l/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. A dark bluish gray color, footprinting, and wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

Weed Control -  Apply broadleaf herbicides to control dandelions and other weeds if necessary. Caution: Some herbicides may affect newly seeded turf. Follow label directions. See Extension Service publication AG-408, Pest Control Recommendations for Turfgrass Managers.

Insect Control -  Check for white grubs in September and October and control them if necessary.

Aerification -  Core lawns subject to heavy traffic or on clay soils to minimize compaction and improve rooting. Break up plugs.

Renovation -  Piedmont and Coastal Plain Regions Only! (See June-August for western region.) Overseed thin, bare areas as grass begins to respond to cooler temperatures in September and early October. Use a blend of tall fescue cultivars at 6 pounds per thousand square feet. Apply a starter-type (high phosphorus) fertilizer at time of seeding. Keep the seedbed moist with light, frequent sprinklings several times a day to ensure good germination.

Thatch Removal -  It is not necessary to remove thatch.


Fescue Care: December thru Februaryby NC State Cooperative Extension Service Turf Files

Mowing -  Remove lawn debris (rocks, sticks, and leaves). Mow lawn at 3 inches and remove clipping debris at spring greenup. Mow before grass gets taller than 5 inches.

Fertilizing -  Fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet in February. In absence of soil test results, use a complete (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio.

Irrigation -  Water, if needed, to prevent excessive drying. About 1 inch of water per application each week is adequate.

Weed Control -  Apply broadleaf herbicides as necessary for control of chickweed, henbit, or other weeds. See Extension Service publication AG-408, Pest Control Recommendations for Turfgrass Managers.

Aerification -  Delay coring until fall.

Thatch Removal -  It is not necessary to remove thatch.