Care & Upkeep...

Storm Induced Changes In The Landscape by Scott Makey

Now that spring is among us, we are facing some issues in the landscape we have already faced in other areas of our living space - re-engineering in the aftermath of a bad storm. The initial response is one of gloom and despair. "But, like my Grandpa says, "You can find a silver lining in every dark cloud."

That old saying fits well here. You may have recently spent time, energy, money and sweat equity in developing the landscape you've always wanted, or you may have only dreamt of the things you'd like to do. If you were only in the dreaming stages, your hand may be forced now by Fran damage to put those wonderful ideas into action.

In The Beginning

To begin re-engineering the landscape, you first have to take a hard, honest look at what you have. Try not to let sentimental connections limit your ability to re-engineer. Focal points may have changed or traffic patterns could have been redirected because of additions such as a deck or patio. You have have once had ample shade and now have stark raving full sunlight to contend with.

If the hurricane didn't destroy everything the current underplanting will more than likely perish this summer in the hot sun. We have to totally rethink what we've got, work into our new design what we want to keep and eliminate the rest.

Developing A New Plan

The next step is to develop a plan. Even "natural" areas are planned. You will want to educate yourself as much as possible, especially if you intend to develop the plan yourself. If you're involving a professional you need at to at least have some idea of what you want your garden to look like. A professional can usually take it from there.

The do-it-yourself approach requires a little more effort and research, but is a very rewarding experience. Things to learn are mature size and shape of particular varieties, soil conditions, sun/shade tolerance, hardiness limitations (cold and heat) and maintenance issues. Use your brain now. It'll pay off. Save your back for later, you'll need it soon enough.

A good landscape design usually breaks into areas, each with its own unique characteristic and purpose. These can be developed by varying bed sizes, shapes and plant material. Remember, this doesn't have to happen all at once. You may implement your plan over the course of several weekends or seasons.

Problem Areas

Virtually all gardens have some problem areas. They are quite often under trees, where other plants have to compete for light, moisture and nutrients. If you still have some trees that pose this particular problem, don't get rid of the trees. There are many other ways to fix the problem.

First, select shade loving material like hosta and annuals such as impatiens and begonias. Try placing these in pots and burying the whole container. This reduces the competition in the root zone from the tree.

Other problem areas can be the result of too much sun and heat. This, more than likely will be an issue for you somewhere in your yard. It is not possible to over stress the importance of proper plant selection in the face of this adversary. Do your homework and you're likely to have fewer problems here than in shady areas.

Focal Points

Most well designed landscape gardens include or or more focal points. A focal point can be as simple as a large specimen plant, strategically placed. It can also be a structure, like a gazebo or fountain. The focal point serves to give the outside room a purpose.

Lines and curves are usually used to enhance the beauty of the focal point, and walks almost always lead to and from this special spot in the garden. Use your imagination here. Focal points can be reflection of your personality, just as your furniture is inside.

The re-engineering phase can seem overwhelming. If you feel you would like to solicit the assistance of a professional to help you through some of the lingo and wade through the various plant possibilities, don't be ashamed. Most professionals are willing to help you in any aspect of the process.

Unfortunately, there are many people practicing the trade of landscaping that are simply not professionals. But fear not. You are not completely in the dark.

Two professional trade organizations can help. You can contact the North Carolina Nurseryman's Association at (919) 266-3322 to find out if the person you've chosen is a Certified Plant Professional. The North Carolina Landscape Contractors Association and Registration Board is legislated by N.C. Law and board members include appointees from the Governor's office and the highest ranking industry officials.

To advertise as a Registered Landscape Contractor, a person must pass an initial screening process and be judged of high moral and professional standards. Also a rigorous examination must be passed. Ask to see proof of registration to insure the highest level of competence and service. If you're going to pay to have a job done, make sure it's done by someone who has proven qualifications.

Now, go take on the project. Do it at your own pace. Enjoy it. Take time to smell the flowers and you'll be amazed at what bountiful blessings the garden will give.

Landscape Maintenance Guidelinesby Scott Makey

The following is provided to aid in proper care of your landscape.

1. All shrubs should be pruned at least once per year in order to promote desirable growth from the bottom branches upward. Any time of year is okay, with late winter being optimal. Maintain desired size and shape of shrubs as needed by pruning.

2. Implement a non-selective post-emergence herbicide spray program. The first summer will be the hardest, with applications necessary on a 2 to 3 week interval. Spray in early morning or late evening to prevent drift. Do not water area for 24 hours after spraying. KEEP SPRAY OFF SHRUBS. It may be beneficial to apply a pre-emergence herbicide. This works to control weed seeds from germinating. If we have converted a turf are to bed, a weed barrier fabric has been installed to reduce weed growth, but is not adequate without a good spray program.

3. Fertilize all trees and shrubs with a slow release fertilizer with an analysis of 14-14-14 or similar in early spring and again in mid summer. Do not fertilize after August 15th.

4. Water is the key to insuring establishment the first year. By the second year, all plants should be established enough to acclimate to naturally provided water, except during extremes. SUPPLEMENT WATERING THE FIRST YEAR FREQUENTLY TO PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT! Water slowly to insure soil penetration. This is called ‘deep watering’. If using an automatic irrigation system, monitor conditions regularly and make adjustments according to specific areas and the season. Not all areas will need the same amount of water. Be aware of soggy areas and try to correct precipitation amounts, as root rot may become an issue.

5. Freshen mulch twice a year to keep all beds at optimal appearance.

6. Monitor all trees and shrubs for pests and or disease. If something looks sick, it is. Call your local extension service agent or us for a diagnosis and treatment recommendations.